A shirt is one of the essential pieces in a man’s wardrobe, and a custom made shirt represents much more than an ordinary garment. These pieces, tailored to fit the wearer’s body type, style, and needs, stand out through carefully selected design details. So, what aspects should you focus on when ordering a bespoke shirt to enhance both your appearance and comfort?
Why Fabric and Stitch Quality Matter in Custom Made Shirts?
The first step in creating a custom made shirt is choosing the fabric. The quality of the material determines the shirt’s drape, breathability, and durability.
- Material Composition: Natural fibers like cotton, linen, or silk generally offer more comfort and a luxurious feel. High-quality cotton varieties, such as Egyptian cotton, are often preferred for their softness and durability.
- Weave Type: Poplin, twill, or herringbone affect the fabric’s texture and sheen. For example, twill tends to be more resistant to wrinkles.
- Stitch Density and Craftsmanship: The number of stitches per centimeter (typically 18–22 stitches) indicates the shirt’s durability and neatness. Clean, solid stitch finishes are essential for a high-quality custom made shirt.
- 2-Ply Cotton: 2-Ply Cotton: 2-ply means that two yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the fabric. It can be 80/2, 100/2, 120/2, 140/2 and so on.
Collar and Cuff Details: How They Reflect Your Personal Style?
Collars and cuffs, among the most noticeable parts of a shirt, define the character of a bespoke shirt.
- Collar Style: Spread, cutaway, or button-down collars should complement your tie and jacket. For instance, a longer, narrower collar may balance wider facial features.
- Collar Stiffness: Collar interlining preserves collar’s shape. A softer collar feels more casual, while a stiffer collar adds formality.
- Cuff Choice: Single, double, or French cuffs can be selected. In custom made shirts, French cuffs are often preferred for a formal, elegant look.
Shirt Fit and Shoulder Alignment: Where Custom Shirts Stand Out?
The real difference of a bespoke shirt lies in a perfectly fitting, comfortable, and flawless cut.
- Body Fit: Beyond standard slim, modern, or classic fits, a custom made shirt is tailored to your exact measurements, not too loose, not restrictive.
- Shoulder Seam Placement: The seam should align with the end of your shoulder bone. Misplaced seams can disrupt the shirt’s overall drape.
Buttons and Buttonholes: How They Affect Shirt and Jacket Harmony
Buttons and buttonholes, though small, are key to the aesthetic integrity of a bespoke shirt, especially when paired with a custom made jacket.
- Button Material: Natural materials like mother-of-pearl add richness and depth compared to plastic.
- Button Stitching: Buttons must be securely and neatly sewn; some tailors prefer cross-stitching for extra durability.
- Horizontal Buttonholes: Hand-sewn buttonholes on the collar or cuffs with high stitch density indicate quality craftsmanship.




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